Mark Lassagne

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Hooking Up an Aqua-Vu to your Garmin Depthfinder

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Installing the Aqua-Vu AV Multi-Vu HD allowing underwater video to be viewed side by side with your downscan or traditional sonar on the newer Garmin units.  Purchase the Multi-Vu here

We start by un-boxing the Aqua View and gathering the necessary tools to install which consisted of a power screwdriver, wire pliers and a few electronic connectors.

The set up was so easy we didn’t even need the instructions.

  1. Remove the front panel to access 12v power and ground
  2. Connected the power and ground – red and black wires to a switched power source
  3. Fish the video out wire through the current hole for the transducer and depth finder wires
  4. Mount the Multi-Vu box next to the Garmin with the supplied screws
  5. Using the supplied adapter hook up the video cable to the Garmin unit
  6. Install the weight and fin on to the camera
  7. Hook up the camera wire to the Multi-Vu box
  8. Turn on the Garmin unit and select the combo screen where you’d like the video to display
  9. Tap on the combo box (touch screen models), select menu then change that box to video 1 or 2
  10. You’re done and ready to see the underwater world

[youtube https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b1DBZQw4Bm4&w=560&h=315]

Installing a Back Up Camera

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bass angler truck garmin back up cameraOne look at my truck with 6″ lift and blacked out windows you can understand how we would need a back up camera. If at a tournament and have to unhook it’s a real pain getting the trailer back on, requiring getting in and out of the truck making sure it’s lined up.

Now with the help of Garmin we have the problem solved.

We recently installed a Garmin dezlCam GPS unit paired with a Garmin BC30

Not only did we solve the trailer alignment problem we can now see the launch ramp and things behind us that wasn’t possible before. And… we now have a state of the art GPS guidance system equipped with a dash cam for any unexpected things that might occur on our long trips.

Since I found this such a valuable asset I wanted to share the easy install process.

First off we plugged the Dezl into the computer went to garmin.com/express  downloaded the app where it found the device and updated it to the latest software. While the unit was updating we installed the camera and  transmitter. The process was easy.

First fine a suitable place for the camera, most times is right to the license plate. Once the camera is mounted you’ll need to fish the wire through where is can plugged into the transmitter – fortunately we had a hole where it fit nicely but you might need to drill one yourself.

Next is the transmitter, you’ll want to find a spot to mount it where it can receive a good signal and won’t be hampered by debris flying around under the vehicle. You can hook up the camera transmitter two different ways, one is powered on all the time or the other is to hook it up so it comes on when the vehicle is placed in reverse. (1) On all the time just hook the red wire to a hot power source and the black wire to a good ground. (2) On in reverse hook up the power wire to the reverse light and the back wire to a good ground. Note – most trucks have live power near the trailer wiring.  The instructions said to power up and test the transmitter placement before securing it. On our truck it was mounted well under the back and had no problem receiving a signal, we also heard that guys are mounting them on their outboards without any signal issues so i think you’ll be fine no matter where you mount it.

Once we finished mounting the camera and transmitter we placed the Dezl on the windshield turned it on and it instantly recognized the camera where we could see what’s going on behind the truck.

Garmin has a great set of videos explaining the install process

[youtube https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X1tW_buzlX8]

Lassagne Wins State Championship

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Wire-to-Wire Victory for Lassagne at the B.A.S.S. State Championship

Weighing limits of 13-10, 11-10 and 12-4 at the B.A.S.S. Nation Regional Championship, Mark Lassagne from San Ramon, Calif. On the final day edged out Rod Brown and Jason Hemminger as the California State Boater champion advancing to the B.A.S.S. Nation Nationals. Lassagne also earned the A.R.E. Top Angler award of $250 as the top-finisher, using the brand’s truck caps.

Lassagne stated he had one goal this week, which was to win his state and advance to the Nationals for a shot to compete at the 2017 Bassmaster Classic. He added that he was very proud of his travel partner Michael Coleman who earned the non-boater championship for California. They will both be traveling back to the national event together.

“The practice session at Lake Mead started out tough,” said Lassagne. “I only landed a few fish each day, but those few fish gave me the confidence to expand on what little I found.”

The key was fishing into the fish rather than what’s happening right now. So many times we fish the fish that are biting right now, but are moving away from that pattern. Lassagne figured with the nice weather the fish would be on the move to spawn, but he knew most anglers would be targeting the usual spawning places. With that in mind he decided to look for the out of the way spots, those subtle places that others wouldn’t look. Each day after boating a limit, he had to search for new water for the next day as each of his spots only held a fish or two.

“I found all of my spots using my 1040XS Garmin,” he stated. “The depth shading option on the Garmin was the key. Since the lake was over a 100 ft down, the normal mapping would show the coves going way back but with the depth shading you could see exactly where each cove ended.”

Lassagne’s fish were caught in less than 2 ft of water on a 5 inch, green pumpkin Yamamoto Senko.

The western pro had his plastic wacky-rigged on a Gamakatsu #2 dropshot hook with 10 lb braid married to 8 lb Sunline fluorocarbon spooled on a 7 ft, medium-action Okuma Helios spinning rod and a 2500 Helios spinning reel.

“The Helios set up played an important role in my success as I needed a sensitive rod and a reel that could make a long cast,” added Lassagne. “I would position the boat about 30 yds. from the back of a cove and cast the open-hook Senko on to the bank. I would drag it in the water to about a foot deep, wait for about 30 seconds, make another cast and then head to the next cove.”

 

Follow Mark Lassagne on Facebook www.facebook.com/marklassagnefishing or at www.marklassagne.com

 

Marine Bass Angler – Mark Lassagne, from San Ramon, California is a popular pro bass angler, former US Marine, outdoor writer, guide, promoter and top competitor. In addition Mark is the editor-in-chief of Bass Angler Magazine

 

 

 

Ever wondered why some batteries last longer than others?

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By Mark Lassagne, Pro Bass Angler and ASE Certified Master Automotive Technician explains, why marine and automotive batteries need to stay charged.

Unlike batteries for your kid’s toys marine batteries do not have memory only lack they’re of.

Most all marine and automotive batteries use a chemical reaction to create voltage. Inside most automotive and marine batteries you have cells consisting of two different types of lead plates and an envelope to hold these lead plates. Each cell is a small battery in its self and when the battery maker adds more cells you get more voltage. Along with the envelopes and lead there is a sulfuric acid solution that when mixed with the lead creates voltage.

Battery CellMarine batteries have bigger or thicker plates allowing the battery to have a larger capacity basically to stay charged longer and withstand more charging cycles while car batteries have smaller plates for increased amperage.

When using anything that draws voltage (trolling motor, depth finder, live wells) from your battery the batteries are discharging where the sulfuric acid solution inside the battery changes or separates. The sulfur part of the solution then attacks the lead plates, eroding the plates and causing less plate area for the battery to hold its capacity. Also when the battery is at a low state of charge the lead plates that have been eroded can shed, casing the particles to fall to the bottom of the battery and short out the plates causing a weak cell and loss of capacity. Less capacity will cause your batteries run down sooner.

What this means is when your batteries are at a full state of charge they will last longer.

For maximum life from your battery it is recommended that you keep your batteries fully charged when possible and plugging in your boat should be one of the first things you do when you get off the water.

Note: batteries also need to be full of water and should be topped off with distilled water.

8lber Every Trip

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mark lassagne culls a three pounder
Now that’s a good cull

Flappin Hog Strikes Again

Yamamoto pro Mark Lassagne puts the Pumpkin Red 4.5” Flappin Hog to work to work on the California Delta with two 2nd place finishes in two weeks, the Angler’s Choice event with Mike Coleman out of B&W Marina and the Don Lee memorial event out of Russo’s with Angelo Alorro.  In addition, Mark also landed 8lb bass at both events and every fish weighed was caught on a Yamamoto Flappin Hog.

Mark targeted hyacthin and hydrilla matts in the west and central regions of the Delta using a 4.5” Yamamoto Flappin Hogs, 1oz River2Sea Trash Bomb weight, 3/0 Super Heavy Duty Gamakatsu flippin hook, 65lb braid, 7.3:1 Helios reel and the TCS 7.11 Matt Daddy XH rod.

What to look for, Mark said it’s pretty simple,  “look for hyacthin and hydrilla matts on flat rounded points with current and fish them very fast. Bigger fish are far a few between where fishing fast and covering water is the key. These big ones (over 5lbs) usually bite the Flappin Hog right away so you don’t need to soak your bait for more than a couple seconds.  Pitch it out shake it through the mat let it fall to the bottom, lift it up – if it’s heavy set – if not lift it up and down twice and hit the next spot five or six feet away from the last spot”.

Mark goes on to say, “Equipment is so important with this technique because most times you can hardly tell a bite from hitting something underwater cover and this is where a light weight sensitive rod comes into play.  When I’m out punching or flipping I’m catching 75% more fish than the other guys on the boat for the simple fact I can feel it and many times will set the hook on instinct because I can feel it.  I’m so hard on this rod flippin 5, 6, 7 lbers in the boat I’m amazed how it holds up.

Tip 1: Lock the drag down on your Helios reel and never let up once you hook up.

Tip 2: Most times with a 4.5” Flappin Hog I use a 4/0 Gamakatsu hook but if you find yourself missing fish switch to a 3/0 hook – sometimes the fish bite funny where the smaller hook works better.

The Amazing Bladed Vibrating Jig

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May 2015 Mark got these along with others on a Sprayed Grass colored Revenge Vibrator topped with a 5.5 swimming Senko
May 2015 Mark got these along with other on a Sprayed Grass colored Revenge Vibrator topped with a 5.5 swimming Senko

By Mark Lassagne

At the Bassmasters Classic many years ago Guy Eaker was telling me about a small plate he put in front of his worm to make it shake back and forth (the Eaker Shaker). The bait looked great in the demo tank but to me it was just another lure. Guy was telling me about all the big fish he had caught on it. But if you’re around fishermen and sports shows you see it all and get calloused to many of the new things. It is just another lure, right? Now I wish I’d done more experimenting.

Fast forward a few years, Alton Jones (Classic Champion) told me how he had won a lot of money recently swimming a jig and that I needed to try it out in the west. Put these two baits together and what do you get?

Early last year I was struggling just to get a bite so I got on the horn and called Randy Pringle. He is “The Fishing Instructor” as well as a long time friend and a fellow guide. Randy tells me he is catching huge bags of fish on a Strike King Pure Poison (similar to a Chatterbait). Later, I saw Randy on the water and he was nice enough to give me a few of these new baits.

My skeptical side was thinking… just another bait, right? But I’ll give it a try and see what happens. After fishing for about an hour with no bites I started to lose any confidence that I may have had, when all of a sudden a ten-pound bass crushed the bait right at the boat. Wow that was cool… but was it was right at the boat maybe it was a fluke? So on down the bank I went and I get a five-pounder… cool, then another five-plus and a few more nice fish. I was by myself and had caught a five fish limit weighing close to 30 pounds.

I was thinking this really is a great bait. The day was not done yet, I decided to try a dead-end slough where the water warms first. While I’m going down the bank repetitively casting the lure just inches from the rip rap; I get a bite and the fish heads instantly for deep water. I thought this must be a Striper it’s too big to be a black bass and with those thoughts I horsed the fish to the boat get it up alongside the boat “Oh My God” it’s was a giant bass, it could have eaten those five-pounders I had caught earlier. After a few minutes that seemed like hours I lipped this monster into the boat. No scale, no camera I’d really feel bad if it died so I let her go right away. It’s the biggest bass I ever caught but without a scale I estimate it was between twelve and fifteen pounds. Ok now we’re looking at a 40-pound bag for the day, talk about gaining confidence in a lure.

By the end of the spring I had this bait down and even weighed 60 pounds in the FLW Stren a three-day event using the bait. I did lose three big fish during that event or I would have had much more. We saw Bret Hite win back-to-back FLW events with this bait and on the California Delta where he caught well over 25 pounds a day. Over the last few years this bait has taken off with many stories similar to mine. We come to find out this is not just another bait but a combination of baits that really work.

The Chatterbait was originally brought to market by ZMAN and they hold the registered patent on the product. Since ZMAN marketed the Chatterbait a number of companies have begun to produce similar baits with some differences. You can purchase the blades and jigs and assemble them yourself. I’ve use a number of these style baits including the original.

The concept is for the blade to shake violently back and forth pushing water from one side to the other. This action creates a vibration and an erratic action like no other bait on the market. After using several different brands I’ve noticed they have different vibrations like different crank baits vibrate differently. Over the last few years I have discovered the baits with the most action produce the more strikes during time when the bite is good and ones that vibrate less are better dung a tough bite.

Two baits I utilize most often are the Revenge Viberator and the original Z-Man. The Revenge has a hunting action that thrashes side to side attracting good quality bites. The Z-Man has a more subtle action better for working the bait slow. Note on the Z-Man you’ll want to replace the light wire snap with a heavier one.

This bait is very versatile, it fishes most anywhere a crank bait or spinner bait can go even with an open hook (no weed guard) and it is very snag resistant. Though you can fish them without a trailer they are more effective with a trailer. The baits usually come with a small split tail trailer that works fine. But, anglers have discovered that adding a different trailer and changing the look of the bait can have very productive results.

You can add almost any worm or soft plastic bait you want to the back. Some good choices are: Swimming Senko, Zoom Ultra Vibe speed worm, Berkley power worms, Zoom Flukes, Basstrix hollow body swimbaits and a host of other baits. A craw type trailer will work as well especially if you’re working the bait super slow. I have found the trailer size directly affects the size of the fish you will catch. Using the small trailer that comes with the bait will yield more bass but larger trailers trigger fewer bites but better sized fish. My #1 choice of trailer is a 5.5”Swimming Senko and on a recent trip my partner commented that’s a big as a swimbait. Using the Swimming Senko (full size) makes the bait about 9 inches long. With this combination my average bass has been about four pounds. Just like using swimbaits, starting out, you may want to downsize in order to gain confidence in the bait. Like everything else in bass fishing experimenting is the key to finding success.

Chatterbaits and similar lures come in a wide array of colors and variations of colors. Just like a crankbait or spinner bait you will have your favorites. The season will also dictate what colors work best. In the spring bass are feeding mainly on crawfish indicating dark colors like browns, reds, greens and blacks to be likely as the best choices. Moving into the summer bass are eating their fry, bluegill, crappie, brim, catfish as well as other small bait fish so the lighter colors with lighter green highlights and chartreuse colors work well. In the fall bass feed on shad and other small bait fish making whites and shad colors the dominant colors. These color choices are only a general suggestions since I have found all colors to work in each season. Again, experimenting will help you figure out what works best on your lake.

Chatterbaits have a single hook, which means you can put more pressure on the fish without it coming unbuttoned. My favorite rod for throwing a chatter bait on the Cal Delta and Clear Lake is the Okuma Scott Marten TCS-C-731 7’3” heavy. On lakes where there’s not as much cover I use my Okuma 7’ TCS –C-701MH medium heavy. You want your rod to have a medium light tip so you can accurately cast the bait and then a good solid lock-up point. (Lock-up point is where the rod is very difficult to bend, the hook setting point) Unless you’re fishing open clear water you’ll need a stout rod that can drive a hook home as well as a rod you can wrestle a big fish out of heavy cover. Matched for the Okuma rod is the Okuma Helios reel – I prefer a fast retrieve so the 7.3:1 or 8.0:1 are my choices. Light line is not necessary, 15lb line is the minimum I use and most times 20lb is preferred. I’ve found fluorocarbon works very well with its low stretch great abrasion resistance plus the stuff just doesn’t break. To catch bass on this bait you need to throw into the cover and to get them out you’ll need a good line, don’t skimp here. Strong monofilament will also work fine too.

By now we should have the basics of rod, line and a few trailers covered so we’re ready to fish. With any lure there is a cadence that works best. The cadence changes day to day depending on the mood of the bass so keep changing the retrieval speed until the fish start to bite. I’ve found a slow retrieval is the secret to this bait 90% of the time. A person fishing this bait slowly will entice more bass than the guy mindlessly chucking and winding. Work the bait in the weeds, through the wood, bounce it off the rocks but make sure you put it where the bass are. Bass are structure oriented ambush predators so don’t be afraid of tossing the bait into complex structure where you might not get it back. If you don’t throw the lure where the fish are you could miss the opportunity to catch the biggest bass of your life.

This is the time of year to catch some giant bass on the Chatterbait, go get a few and see how they work for you. Over the last few years I’ve so many big fish the chatter / vibration style bait is always tie on.

Good luck and let me know how a bladed vibrator works for you?

Semper-Fi

Mark

If you like this article pick up a copy of Bass Angler Magazine and many more on bass fishing.

Ask Uncle

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Ask Uncle - The Bass AnglerBass Angler Issue 42 – Ask Uncle – Originally published by The Bass Angler Magazine in South Africa

The Bass Angler February 2015 – Ask Uncle
ASK UNCLE WITH GEORGE ROBEY III  We’re happy to report that this feature “Ask Uncle” has found favour with our readers. The BASS ANGLER makes you a more informed and better angler! Find out anything you want to know about bass, bass behaviour, fisheries management, fishing techniques, equipment, tackle, rigging and methods. Quite simply, all you have to do is ask! Free of charge! No Fees attached!

Here is how it works. You, the reader, emails any question about bass fishing and we will ferret out the answers from top experts in the field. You will be getting fresh, cutting edge information from specialists in SA and abroad. Not staff writers. Not generalists. Real experts. There are no questions too basic and no questions too advanced. We will go wherever it takes to get the best answers for you, the reader.
E-Mail questions to: editor@thebassangler.com marked “Uncle”or send them via THE BASS ANGLER Facebook page.
Please sign your question the way you want it to appear in the magazine. You can use initials, first name or full name. Don’t be embarrassed to ask any question, and always tell us your city of residence.mark lassagne bass fishing

 

PLEASE TELL ME HOW TO CATCH BASS OUT OF LILY PADS AND HEAVY SURFACE MOSS? EDDIE, NELSPRUIT QUESTION
We all know that summer heat drives big bass to either deep water or heavy, shaded cover. Therefore we presented this month’s question to an American fishing industry and tournament professional, Mark Lassagne, who tells you all you need to know about fishing lily pads and moss beds. The knowledge presented here will benefit bank anglers, boat anglers and tubers.
In “the California Delta” we are over run with Hyacinth, Hydrilla and other types of invasive vegetation. If you’re not getting into the thick vegetation you won’t catch fish. Bass love heavy cover, as protection from the heat/cold and for the unlimited food supply. Thick, matted vegetation has the ability to harbor a good population of bass but not all matted vegetation is good. Fishing matted vegetation can be extremely productive with the right equipment, baits and knowledge.

EQUIPMENT:
Just like you wouldn’t tow your bass boat with a Corolla you can’t fish heavy cover with a finesse outfit. My setup includes an Okuma Matt Daddy 7’11” (TCS-C-7111XH) extra heavy rod with just a little tip action. I match that up with an Okuma Helios 7.3:1 reel, 65 to 80lb braid. Make sure the drag is locked down; if it slips you can easily lose a big one. I use a 6th Sense PEX-X stopper, River2sea 1 or 1.5 ounce Trash Bomb tungsten weight and a Gamakatsu Heavy Wire hook tied with a Snell knot. Each of these items have been carefully chosen for the purpose of fishing heavy cover.

BAITS:
My number one bait by far has been the Yamamoto Flappin Hog, followed by the Reaction Innovations 420 Beaver, Missile D Bomb and Jackall Sasuteki Craw. The best colour for me has been Green Pumpkin with red flake. Green pumpkin is the number one seller for most every plastics company, so the colour choice is not unique. However, every body of water is different. It’s pretty dark under a weed mat so I’m not overly picky on colour – close is ok. I generally have one rod rigged with a punch skirt and one without. Over the last year I’ve had better results without a skirt.

PRESENTATION:
Presenting the bait correctly is fairly simple but does require some practice. Some anglers toss the bait up in the air and have it come crashing down but I’m not a fan of that. I’ll pitch the bait out using a swing type cast causing the bait to fly low. I cast towards a small hole in the lily pads or weed mat. If the bait does not penetrate on the landing I’ll shake it a little and move it small amounts until it drops through. I generally use a 1oz weight. If the bait does not go through, I will switch to a 1.5oz.
The most important part of the cast is the drop through the vegetation. The reel should remain in free spool and once the bait penetrates hold your rod at 10 o’clock and let the line peel off the spool at  controlled speed. When the bait hits bottom shake it a few times, pull it half way up, shake it a couple more times,
lastly pull it to just under the mat and shake it again.

Screen Shot 2015-01-29 at 6.48.44 PM

BITES:
Most bites come on the initial fall but I’ve caught several bass over 7lb shaking it off the bottom so it’s worth the effort. The bite can be different on any cast and that is why the rod is so important – hence a light but sensitive rod. Sometimes the strike will feel like you hit something hard, other times you may “feel” something… just not right. Often, the line peels off your reel. If you’re real lucky you will feel a noticeable tic. No matter which way they bite make sure you get a good hook set. Reel straight up, causing the bass to flop out on top of the mat then winch him to the boat. With my set up I can flip an 8lber in the boat.

LOCATION:
Not all matted vegetation is the same. I focus on matted vegetation and lily pads covering areas that normally hold bass, such as points, pockets, drops and ledges. I try to stay away from vast areas covered with vegetation. However, don’t overlook a special spot within a vast area. I have one bank that has hyacinth for 300 yards but in the center the depth drops from 3ft to 6ft. That spot most always holds a couple fish. I have found that most big bass are caught in 5 to 10ft of water.

My best results have come from fishing new areas day after day, fishing in the moment and developing patterns. I’ll look for patterns, such as fish on a point in 5ft of water, pockets or drop-offs, always trying to figure out where they are and what presentation they want. Once I get a clue I’ll work to expand on it.
NOTE: I found that picking apart heavy vegetation is not necessary. I’ll generally cast five or more feet apart, then if I catch a fish I’ll return a few minutes later and go over it again.

*Mark Lassagne from San Ramon, California is the Editor-in-Chief of Bass Angler Magazine (BAM) and a professional angler competing in the B.A.S.S. Opens and the FLW/RAYOVAC series. Mark recently won a BASS Federation event in California and over the last six months has earned several top ten finishes in various tournaments using this technique. In addition he has caught 20 tournament fish over 7lbs and 50 over 5lbs. FOLLOW MARK ON: facebook/mark.lassagne or www.ezbass.com

Fishing Rods – The Confusing Difference

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The Rod Blank

By Mark Lassagne

 

Since the beginning of time, anglers have employed some type of rod to entice finned creatures from their watery home. We’ve come along way from the stick and string era to now, when even the savviest angler is confused about what IM rating, guide configuration, grip and reel seats are best for their type of fishing.

Over the next several issues, we will walk you trough an unbiased look at the ever-evolving fishing rod. Starting with the rod itself, the material and the building process, moving into guides and guide configuration, handles and reel seats and then wrapping it up with specific actions that best fit each technique.

 

THE ROD OR BLANK

Arguably the most important part of a fishing rod is the blank. The blank is the flexible portion between the angler and the lure hopefully with a fish attached. Blanks come in many shapes, sizes and colors, similar to golf clubs they are made with different materials to create a specific action for specific techniques. A few important factor

Cutting the rod pattern

s you will want to know are: the material type, the modulus and weight, then comes the action, power and speed.

 

A roll of graphite rod material
A roll of graphite rod material

ROD MATERIAL

The material used to manufacture fishing rods is called pre-preg. Per-preg, which looks like a thick cloth and consists of resin, scrim plus graphite or fiberglass. Scrim is a very fine (.001”) fiberglass screen that holds the graphite or fiberglass material together, resin a specialized binding agent that when heated bonds the materials together.

There are thousands of combinations of pre-preg where each rod manufacturer configures their own recipe to fit their exact needs of resin, scrim and rod material. The pre-preg arrives to the rod manufacturer in a large roll similar to a large roll of paper you’d see at the craft store. One difference is pre-preg must be stored in the freezer, otherwise the material could start the curing process rendering it useless.

 

Note: Carbon fiber is graphite

 

MODULUS OF ELASTICITY

We hear this term often, whether it’s IM6, IM7 or the latest IM9, this one is 60,000,000 modulus or that one is 22,000,000. Does this really matter? What does it mean?

Modulus is a complex measurement describing something’s ability to be temporarily deformed when a force is applied to it. Everything has a modulus, the modulus of a steel rod would be very high where a rubber band is very low.

Besides just a measurement, the modulus gives us an idea of the recovery speed, durability and weight of the blank. In general, a low modulus rod would be more durable and flexible, while a high modulus rod would be stiffer and more sensitive, but not as durable.

Advertised modulus is usually comprised of the base material. This gets tricky as most rods are made up of a blend of different materials rather than just one, so the advertised modulus is that of the main material rather than the combined.

Generally, higher modulus material is more expensive along with being stiffer, thus taking less material to obtain a desired action. The use of less material makes for a lighter rod.

Though modulus is important, it doesn’t mean a low modulus rod will be low priced. There are many reasons for the varied types of materials. Most of the rod value is in the design, build and components, as you will see in this series of articles.

 

ADVERTISED MODULUS

IM6 = 40 million

IM8= 44 million

E Glass = 9 million

S Glass = 12 million

 

 

Cutting the rod pattern
Cutting the rod pattern

BUILDING A ROD

The building of the rod is relatively simple, once you get the hang of it. As long as you have a few hundred grand in equipment. This is not something you can do at home.

The process starts with a pattern, the pre-preg is rolled out on to a cutting table where it is trimmed to an exact pattern for the desired action. Once cut the material is taken to another special table where pre-preg is rolled into a rod. Using a hot iron, the edge of the pre-preg is attached to a precision ground steel rod called a mandrel. Then, under pressure this special table rolls the material evenly onto the mandrel. The material now has the shape of a fishing rod and is then taken to a machine that spins the rod, wrapping a special cellophane from tip to butt.

Once wrapped, it heads to the oven for several hours of baking at 350° after the baking is complete, the mandrel is removed with a press and then the cellophane is removed. At this point it is possible to use it as a rod; however, most blank builders sand the rough finish and then coat the exterior with a flexible, light urethane finish.

 

MANDREL

The mandrel is a precision ground steel rod specific to each rod. Every rod has a different mandrel where manufactures may have to have literally thousands on hand.

 

ROD FINISH

Rods are finished in an array of colors. They all start out a dark grey to black color. Then, the color is added after the rod has been sanded. Most manufacturers sand the witness marks from the blank, so it’s smooth. From there, it can either be polished or coated. The rod can also remain unfinished without a problem. The resin used in the pre-prig will satisfy as a finish.

A new trend has been to have a finish that looks like a carbon fiber mesh. This is simply a crisscross mesh of graphite added to the outer layer of the rod. The mesh is basically for looks. It may help the rod against being crushed when stepped on, but since the fibers are crossed it doesn’t do much for the action.

 

SPLINE

The spline of a rod is a slightly thicker area of the rod where the material is overlapped. Since the area is thicker, that portion is slightly stiffer. There are different opinions about using the spline when placing the guides. Since one part of the bank is stiffer, some rod builders say if you don’t use the spline, the rod could roll in your hand under pressure, or may not cast as well. Others say, the difference is so minute that it doesn’t really matter. It could be considered that a rod that is built using the spline would be slightly more contestant than one that doesn’t.

 

ROD POWER

The power of the rod is it’s lifting ability where as a heavy rod could lift more than a lighter rod. These power ratings are generally referred to as: Extra Heavy, Heavy Medium, Medium, Medium Light and Light.

 

ROD ACTION

The action is how the rod bends under pressure. A slow action rod will bend in a parabolic shape with the bending focal point near the center of the rod. A fast action will have a focal or bending point closer to the top of the rod. A rod designed for a crankbait would have a slower action where as a rod designed for jig fishing would have a faster action.

 

THE TIP

The tip is the very top flexible portion of the rod and may also be classified as fast or slow. Though very important, most times the manufacturer build the tip action into the rod, but doesn’t list it separately in the rod action.

Tips are based mostly upon the size of the lure being used and the technique. A rod designed for punching or heavy flipping would have a fast tip. Rods designed to cast a lure would have a slower tip based upon the lure size. If you’ve ever tried to cast a small crankbait with a jig rod you would have a good appreciation for a flexible tip.

We’ve touched on the material, manufacturing process and the basics of rod actions. Coming up, we’ll talk about the guides: micro, titanium, alconite, wire frame, single foot, wrapping, placement and much more.

I’d like to give a special thanks to Wade Cunningham the rod designer at Cousins Rods and Mike Thorson the design engineer at Batson Enterprises for their extensive help with this and future rod articles.

Mark Lassagne is an avid tournament angler and the editor of Bass Angler Magazine.

 

When Size Matters

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2014-09-13 11.52.47Tournament Size Summer Bass

By Jody Only with Mark Lassagne

Put aside the frustrations and focus

Although there are differences within every fishery, an important commonality is that they each hold one or more places that normally house quality fish. This big bass locale may be a known community hole or it may be a secret honey-hole – regardless, if it is a place that you want to target, you need to know how to find it.

California pro and editor of Bass Angler Magazine Mark Lassagne, shares his views on this exact subject – to help anglers locate better quality bass during the summer months.

“When you combine more than one big fish place, your chances of success increase dramatically,” said Lassagne as he listed five key factors that help him narrow down the big fish spots.

 

VEGETATION

If you could only have one item in a lake or river to fish – weeds would be the best. Take a look inside a patch of hydrilla or under a hyacinth mat and you will find the basics needs of bass survival. Vegetation is inundated with bait fish, crawdads and a variety of other food sources. It also provides cover for shade from heat or warmth from temperature drops. And, don’t forget healthy foliage also offers increased oxygen – another necessity of life.

Whether floating or submerged, you want green weeds as they are they oxygen producers. Once the vegetation starts to turn yellow or brown it is dying off and it will rob the water of oxygen, pushing the fish away from it.

Algae is another substance that can cause a lack of oxygen. Solid mats of algae will block out the sun ,causing the vegetation underneath to die, again robbing the area of precious oxygen. An exception would be an area with current, as the current will carry fresh water under the mat, bringing with it more O2.

The key to weeds or vegetation is to have some depth, combined with an irregularity. If you have a long straight weed line, the fish will be scattered, but add in a point, channel swing or that “something different” and you’ve got yourself a sweet spot. That mixture of vegetation, depth and an irregularity will be the makings for a good bass.

Vegetation can be fished, by flippin, punchin, Senko or a frog over the top. If I had to pick one way to get quality fish in the boat it would be punchin’ submerged weeds. Isolated vegetation with a little depth is probably the best place to hold a summer giant and the best reason for a heavy duty set up. The combo I use for gettin’ through the thick stuff is an Okuma Matt Daddy Rod combined with a Helios 7.3:1 reel spooled with 65 lb braid. My punch rig would include a 1 oz. River2Sea Trash Bomb weight, 4/0 Gamakatsu Heavy Cover hook with a green pumpkin Yamamoto Flapping Hog.

DEEP WATER

Ensuring there is deep water fairly close by like points, creek channels, channel swings, edges and ledges is always a good bet. You can look for depth adjacent to shallower flats along transition points that the fish can move up or off of.

Deep water ledges can be key in the summer, but most times are best when combined with other key items.

In deeper water you may have to employ finesse methods to get bit. Points – and especially points with irregularities are the number one spot for deep water, summer bass.

Points with a cove or a creek are better especially on the deep channel side. When fishing a long break or ledge, you are again looking for the irregularities.

On lakes that are completely void of cover or vegetation, the bass will specifically seek out deep water and so should you.

When fishing deep I’ll opt for a moving bait. I will begin with a deep crankbait, slow rolling a spinnerbait or dragging a swimbait. I may then move to a jig or weightless Senko. If I still haven’t found a productive presentation, I will go to a finesse method. When employing a finesse method, it is common to have to weed through smaller fish to find the kicker.

CURRENT

Current can come from a tidal flow, wind, a power-generating lake or from the use of a dam or pumps. Current is important for a couple of reasons. First, it gets the summer bass moving and will put them places where they are much easier to catch.

Bass will tend to position on the down current side of a point or break. Remember to combine the current with the cover for a better opportunity at bigger fish. Think dock edges, shade lines, drop offs, anyplace where a bass can ambush its prey and look for the side with moving water.

SHADE

Studies show that bass don’t mind being in the sun; however, I personally have seen many more big bass under docks in the shade than most anywhere.

Shade comes in all shape and sizes. Shade lines act like a moving piece of cover. Bass see the shadow like it is structure. They will use a bridge piling shadow like it’s a stump on the shore line or the shadow of a roof line of a dock even that shadow descends 30 feet away from the dock.

If there are shadows in open water small flukes or weightless Senko’s worked along the shade line edge work well.

COVER

Structure is the lake bottom and contours; cover can be flooded trees, a laydown, standing timber, a sunken barge, a dock, tires an old barrel etc. Cover can be good during low light situations, but it can be even more effective when combined with other cover – like brush that is under a dock.

If you’re fishing cover with current, a weightless or nail-weighted Senko is very effective. This Senko setup will also work well as a follow up bait for a missed topwater bite.

When the bass want something moving faster, a ChatterBait or vibrating jig with a full-sized Yamamoto Swimming Senko is a good big fish bait. A high percentage color is matching a green pumpkin lure with a coordinated trailer.

Cover (specifically docks) can provide great big bass fishing all summer long. It might take a little practice, but skipping a jig under a dock can pay big dividends. If you’re having trouble skipping a jig, try a tube rigged on a darthead or a Texas-rigged Senko – weightless.

If you see big fish under the docks, they probably see you too; so make note of where they are. Later, come back – being as stealthy as possible and skip a smoke or clear colored tube under the dock.

Last summer at Clear Lake in California, we caught a 30 lb. bag (two days in a row) skipping a Damiki Mamba Jig under the docks, ripping the bait up very fast, letting it fall, then ripping it again. Other anglers who were just working the jig back slowly or in a normal fashion could only manage about 15 lbs. This showed its good to experiment with presentation and retrieve. Every lake is different and every day the fish can be different.

 

QUANTITY VS. QUALITY

Nothing is more fun than a big bass crushing buzzbait in low light conditions. You won’t get a lot of bites once the sun comes up, but the ones you do get are usually good ones.

When targeting “tournament quality” or bigger bass, that is something you must keep in mind. The bites will be less, but the fish will be bigger. Some days you may want to fish for quantity, but when you want to fish for quality – you need to get into that “five bite” mentality and know that if you grind it out, you just may get that 30 lb bag.

 

Mark Lassagne is the Editor in Chief of Bass Angler Magazine. He has worked as a guide, fished as a pro angler cashing on most every lake out west. Mark is sponsored by Okuma Fishing, River2Sea, Mercury Outboards, Gamakatsu, Yamamoto Baits, Bass Thrasher Clothing and is Marine Bass Angler.